Paul Smith (ポール・スミス)2017年秋冬メンズ・ウィメンズ合同ショーを開催

2017年秋冬シーズン、ポール・スミスは初めてメンズとウィメンズのコレクションを統合した合同ショーを行いました。

これまでもメンズとウィメンズのコレクションには共通のデザインや関連性が反映されてきたことや、ともにコレクションのルーツにはテーラリングが存在していることから、二つを統合しショーを行うことはごく自然な流れでした。2017年秋冬シーズン、ポール・スミスはブランドの原点や美学を表現するさまざまな要素をコレクションの随所に落とし込み、ポール・スミスらしさを改めて打ち出します。

今回のコレクションではミルで、素材やデザインについて学んだ経験が生かされ、LovattやHardy Minnisなどのミルが織り上げる質感のあるテーラリング素材が採用されています。また、プリンスオブウェールズやブラックワッチタータンなどの英国を象徴するチェック柄がひときわ目を引きます。

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英国らしさへのフォーカスはニットにも反映されており、落ち着いた色味のスコティッシュカシミアや、チャームモチーフが織り込まれたフェアアイルニットが、質感や色のアクセントを与えています。シャツにはオリジナルのクラシックフローラルプリントのほか、エクスクルーシブなリバティプリントが用いられています。

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また、生地からカッティングまで、テーラリングは常にポール・スミスの中心にあり、メンズとウィメンズのコレクションでもその存在感を示しています。同じアイデンティティをもちながら、男性と女性それぞれに適したデザインや構築が特徴です。

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ポール・スミスにとって欠かせないプリントは、今シーズン特に効果的に使用されています。カラフルに彩られた鳥の羽根はシーズンを代表するモチーフで、フェザープリントはシルクにプリントされているほか、カシミヤコートに手刺しの刺繍でほどこされたり、レザーアクセサリーに落とし込まれています。

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コレクションの画像

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